Author: yashasinitski

It’s only been eleven days since the start of 2024, and yet we have already received two calls from clients concerned about the state of their slabs and foundation walls. While concrete is a durable and versatile material that is widely used in homes and garages, concrete can also deteriorate over time due to various factors, such as corrosion of embedded metals, chemical attack, freeze-thaw cycles, abrasion, fire, shrinkage, overload, impact, loss of support and surface defects. In this blog post, we will discuss some of the most common types and causes of concrete deterioration and how to prevent them.

Corrosion of Embedded Metals (Most Common)

Corrosion of reinforcing steel and other embedded metals is the leading cause of concrete deterioration. When steel corrodes, the resulting rust occupies a greater volume than the steel. This expansion creates tensile stresses in the concrete, which can eventually cause cracking, delamination and spalling.

Steel corrodes because it is not a naturally occurring material. Rather, iron ore is smelted and refined to produce steel. The production steps that transform iron ore into steel add energy to the metal. Steel, like most metals except gold and platinum, is thermodynamically unstable under normal atmospheric conditions and will release energy and revert back to its natural state — iron oxide, or rust. This process is called corrosion.

For corrosion to occur, four elements must be present: There must be at least two metals (or two locations on a single metal) at different energy levels, an electrolyte (such as water or moisture), oxygen and a metallic connection (such as wire or rebar).

The most common causes of corrosion of embedded metals in concrete are:

1. Chloride ions: Chloride ions can penetrate the concrete through cracks, pores or joints and reach the steel surface. Chloride ions can break down the protective layer of oxide that forms on the steel surface and accelerate the corrosion process. Chloride ions can come from deicing salts, seawater, groundwater or admixtures.
2. Carbonation: Carbonation is the reaction of carbon dioxide in the air with the calcium hydroxide in the concrete. This lowers the pH of the concrete and reduces its alkalinity, which is essential for protecting the steel from corrosion. Carbonation can occur when concrete is exposed to air or when it has a low water-cement ratio.
3. Dissimilar metal corrosion: Dissimilar metal corrosion occurs when two different metals are in contact with each other in an electrolyte. The more active metal (such as zinc or aluminum) will corrode faster than the less active metal (such as steel or copper). This can happen when different types of reinforcement are used in the same structure or when metal accessories are embedded in the concrete.

To prevent corrosion of embedded metals in concrete, some of the possible solutions are:

1. Use corrosion-resistant reinforcement, such as stainless steel, epoxy-coated steel or galvanized steel.
2. Use adequate concrete cover over the reinforcement to protect it from exposure to moisture, oxygen and chloride ions.
3. Use low-permeability concrete with a high water-cement ratio and adequate curing to minimize cracking and pore size.
4. Use admixtures or coatings that can inhibit corrosion or seal cracks.
5. Avoid using deicing salts or other sources of chloride ions on concrete surfaces.
6. Avoid mixing different types of metals in the same structure or use insulating materials to separate them.
7. Install galvanic anodes (also referred to as sacrificial anodes) in contact with other reinforcement (such as steel rebar) to slow the onset of harmful corrosion.

Freeze-Thaw Deterioration (Very Common)

Freeze-thaw deterioration occurs when water freezes and expands inside the pores or cracks of concrete. This creates internal pressure that can exceed the tensile strength of the concrete and cause cracking, scaling or spalling. The most common causes of freeze-thaw deterioration in concrete are:

1. Deicer scaling: Deicer scaling is the loss of surface mortar due to repeated cycles of freezing and thawing in the presence of deicing salts. Deicing salts lower the freezing point of water and increase the number of freeze-thaw cycles. They also increase the osmotic pressure inside the pores and draw more water into the concrete.
2. Aggregate expansion: Aggregate expansion is the swelling of certain types of aggregates due to freezing and thawing. Some aggregates contain water-soluble minerals that can absorb water and expand when frozen. This can cause internal cracking or popouts in the concrete.

To prevent freeze-thaw deterioration in concrete, some of the possible solutions are:

1. Keep moisture as far away from the concrete as possible. For foundations, this is accomplished by installing waterproof membranes against the walls. In garages, however, it is difficult to maintain the separation as vehicles bring in water through snow, ice and rain. Our recommendation is to brush off the vehicle to remove as much snow and ice a possible prior to entering the garage. We also recommend minimizing salt use around your home, and to make use of alternative products.
2. Use air-entrained concrete, which contains microscopic air bubbles that can provide space for water to expand without causing damage.
3. Use durable aggregates that are resistant to freezing and thawing and do not contain water-soluble minerals.
4. Use proper finishing and curing techniques to avoid excessive bleeding, segregation or evaporation of water from the concrete surface.
5. Avoid using deicing salts or other chemicals that can increase the risk of freeze-thaw damage.

Chemical Attack (Less Common)

Chemical attack is the deterioration of concrete due to exposure to aggressive chemicals that can react with the cement paste or the aggregates. Chemical attack can cause loss of strength, cracking, discoloration or erosion of the concrete.

The most common types of chemical attack on concrete are:

1. Acids: Acids can dissolve the calcium hydroxide and the calcium silicate hydrate in the cement paste, which are the main components of concrete. Acids can also react with some aggregates and cause expansion or cracking. Acids can come from acid rain, industrial waste, fertilizers or organic matter.
2. Salts and alkalis: Salts and alkalis can cause efflorescence, which is the formation of white crystals on the surface of concrete due to the migration and evaporation of water-soluble salts. Salts and alkalis can also cause alkali-silica reaction or alkali-carbonate reaction, which are discussed in the next section. Salts and alkalis can come from seawater, groundwater, deicing salts or cement.
3. Sulfates: Sulfates can react with the calcium aluminate hydrate in the cement paste and form ettringite, which is a mineral that occupies more volume than the original components. This can cause expansion, cracking and spalling of the concrete. Sulfates can come from soil, groundwater, sewage or industrial waste.

To prevent chemical attack on concrete, some of the possible solutions are:

1. Use low-permeability concrete with a high water-cement ratio and adequate curing to reduce the penetration of chemicals into the concrete.
2. Use chemical-resistant admixtures or coatings that can protect the concrete from aggressive substances.
3. Use appropriate types of cement and aggregates that are compatible with the exposure conditions and do not contain harmful substances.
4. Avoid contact between concrete and sources of chemicals or provide adequate drainage and ventilation to prevent accumulation of chemicals.

Alkali-Aggregate Reactivity (Less Common)

Alkali-aggregate reactivity is a type of chemical reaction between the alkalis in the cement paste and certain types of aggregates that contain reactive silica or carbonate minerals. The reaction produces a gel-like substance that absorbs water and expands, causing internal pressure and cracking in the concrete.

The most common types of alkali-aggregate reactivity are:

1. Alkali-silica reactivity: Alkali-silica reactivity occurs when the alkalis in the cement paste react with certain types of siliceous aggregates, such as chert, opal, flint or glass. The reaction produces a gel-like substance that absorbs water and expands, causing internal pressure and cracking in the concrete. The cracks are usually filled with the gel, which has a white or gray color.
2. Alkali-carbonate reactivity: Alkali-carbonate reactivity occurs when the alkalis in the cement paste react with certain types of dolomitic aggregates, which contain both calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. The reaction produces a gel-like substance that absorbs water and expands, causing internal pressure and cracking in the concrete. The cracks are usually filled with the gel, which has a yellow or brown color.

To prevent alkali-aggregate reactivity in concrete, some of the possible solutions are:

1. Use low-alkali cement, which has a lower content of sodium oxide and potassium oxide.
2. Use non-reactive aggregates that do not contain reactive silica or carbonate minerals.
3. Use pozzolanic materials, such as fly ash, slag or silica fume, which can reduce the alkalinity of the cement paste and consume some of the reactive silica in the aggregates.
4. Use admixtures or coatings that can inhibit or control the reaction or seal the cracks.

Disclaimer: This article is written on the basis that any proposed construction will take place in Ontario, Canada. If you’re reading this from outside of Ontario (say, elsewhere in Canada), chances are that the process will be extremely similar. With that said, please confirm with your own local professional organizations.

Question: How do you use your ungraded lumber in a construction project in Ontario?

If you are planning to build a structure in Ontario, you may be wondering if you can use ungraded lumber for your project. Ungraded lumber is wood that has not been inspected or certified by a grading agency for its quality, strength, or durability. Ungraded lumber is usually cheaper than graded lumber, but it also comes with some risks and limitations.

In this blog post, we will explain what ungraded lumber is, how it differs from graded lumber, and what are the rules and regulations for using it in Ontario. We will also give you some tips and best practices for using ungraded lumber safely and effectively.

What is ungraded lumber?

Ungraded lumber is wood that has not been subjected to any quality control process by a recognized grading agency. Grading agencies are organizations that inspect and certify wood products according to national or international standards. Grading agencies use visual or machine methods to assess the wood’s characteristics, such as moisture content, density, knots, splits, warping, decay, and defects. Based on these criteria, they assign a grade stamp to the wood that indicates its quality and suitability for different uses.

Ungraded lumber does not have any grade stamp or label on it. It may be wood that has been rejected by a grading agency for failing to meet the standards, or wood that has been produced by a mill that does not participate in any grading program. Ungraded lumber may also be wood that has been salvaged from demolition sites, recycled from pallets or crates, or harvested from private lands (the most common situation).

How does ungraded lumber differ from graded lumber?

The main difference between ungraded and graded lumber is the level of quality assurance and reliability. Graded lumber has been tested and verified by a third-party agency to meet certain performance criteria. Ungraded lumber has not been tested or verified by anyone, so its quality and performance are unknown and unpredictable.

Graded lumber is classified into different categories based on its intended use and strength properties. For example, structural lumber is graded for its ability to resist bending, compression, tension, and shear forces. Non-structural lumber is graded for its appearance and suitability for finishing. Within each category, there are different grades that indicate the level of quality and allowable defects. For example, structural lumber grades range from No. 1 (highest quality) to No. 3 (lowest quality).

Ungraded lumber does not have any category or grade designation. It may have varying levels of quality and defects within the same batch or even within the same piece of wood. Ungraded lumber may also have inconsistent dimensions and moisture content, which can affect its stability and performance.

What are the rules and regulations for using ungraded lumber in Ontario?

In Ontario, the Building Code Act and the Ontario Building Code (OBC) regulate the construction of buildings and structures. The OBC sets out the minimum requirements for design, materials, installation, safety, accessibility, energy efficiency, and environmental protection.

According to the OBC, all structural wood products used in construction must be graded and stamped by an accredited grading agency. There are two such agencies in Ontario – the Ontario Forest Industries Association (OFIA) and the Ontario Lumber Manufacturers Agency (OLMA). This requirement applies to all types of structural wood products, such as dimensional lumber, engineered wood products (e.g., plywood, oriented strand board), laminated timber products (e.g., glulam), and prefabricated wood elements (e.g., trusses).

The OBC also specifies the minimum grade requirements for different structural applications. For example,

– For floor joists and roof rafters, the minimum grade is No. 2.

– For beams and columns, the minimum grade is No. 1.

– For studs and plates in load-bearing walls, the minimum grade is Stud.

– For sheathing and decking boards, the minimum grade is Select Structural.

The OBC does not prohibit the use of ungraded lumber for non-structural purposes, such as interior finishing or furniture making. However, it does require that all materials used in construction must be free from decay or deterioration that could affect their performance or durability.

The OBC also allows some exceptions for using ungraded lumber for structural purposes under certain conditions. These include:

– When the ungraded lumber is approved by a professional engineer who has verified its strength and suitability for the intended use.

– When the ungraded lumber is used in accordance with a recognized standard or guideline that provides adequate performance criteria.

– When the ungraded lumber is used in low-risk applications where failure would not endanger life or property.

Some examples of low-risk applications where ungraded lumber may be used are:

– Farm buildings that are not intended for human occupancy or storage of hazardous materials. A fact sheet on this scenario, issued by the Ontario government, can be reviewed here.

– Temporary structures that are not intended to last more than one year.

– Minor additions or alterations to existing buildings that do not affect the structural integrity or safety

If you are a homeowner and want to cut your own lumber to use in a construction project, how do you get it graded for use in Ontario? Here are some steps you can follow:

– First off – check with your local city, county, and/or building code office to find out the exact requirements in your area. Requirements and the level of enforcement vary. Don’t be satisfied until you have seen the rules yourself. Keep a copy for future reference.

– Review the NLGA guide, titled “Standard Grading Rules for Canadian Lumber”. A copy of this guide can be downloaded here. Thoroughly review the pertinent parts of the guide to make sure you understand what standards apply.

– Contact the appropriate lumber grading agency (either the OLMA or OFIA) to discuss your plan with them and to make certain that your lumber will meet all of the requirements, such as thickness, widths, and lengths, moisture content, and required other items. Checking out all of the details before sawing can save time and wasted materials. These agencies can provide on-site inspection for grading and grade stamping the lumber to NLGA Standard Grading Rules.

– Schedule a visit with the lumber inspector, make sure you have enough time for his visit, and your area is properly laid out for inspection. Make certain any documentation is prepared and available should the inspector ask for it.

Following these steps will help you get your lumber grade stamped, which is required by all building codes and inspectors. The grade stamp will identify the species, grade and moisture content of the piece of lumber, its facility of origin, the logo of the accredited Grading Agency that has overseen its grading, and any special processing the lumber has received. An example of a grade stamp is shown below:

Lastly, if you’re planning to go through with a project, ensure that you have an appropriate building permit. For more information on permits, their value, and how obtain one, you can read our other blog post.

Before we start: No, reading this won’t be the solution to your endless questions and won’t make you a qualified tradesperson. It may save you from the obvious mistakes, however!

Renovating, or building, your home can be a rewarding and exciting project, but it also comes with some challenges and risks. From planning to execution, there are numerous steps involved, and it’s crucial to pay attention to every detail to ensure your project is successful. One of the most important aspects of any project is ensuring that the structural integrity of your home is not compromised by your changes. Unfortunately, many homeowners make some common structural errors and mistakes that can lead to serious problems, costly repairs in the future, or even safety hazards.

In this blog post, we’ll discuss some of the most common structural errors and mistakes that people make when renovating their homes. Please keep in mind that this post is not exhaustive and doesn’t cover every issue in its fullest detail. There are things omitted and that’s on purpose. Perhaps it would be for the best to treat this as a “101” style guide… Here we go!

Ignoring Building Codes and Regulations

Let’s start with the basics: the single most common mistake people make when renovating their homes is ignoring building codes and regulations. In Ontario, this is the Ontario Building Code. The code is in place to ensure that buildings are structurally sound and safe for occupancy (among other excellent reasons!).

Ignoring the code can lead to serious safety hazards, and you may even face fines or legal action. If you are completing your project in accordance with municipal requirements, you likely have a building permit – ignoring or not meeting the code’s clauses and stipulations will lead to headaches brought on by failed inspections. Therefore, before starting any renovation project, make sure you’re familiar with the building codes and regulations in your area and adhere to them.

For those of in Ontario, accessing the Ontario Building Code is easy, even if you don’t have a full print copy. Here at SSEL, we use the following website as a quick reference. This website is well organized, relatively complete, and makes it easy to verify information.

https://www.buildingcode.online/

Misusing LVL Products

LVL stands for laminated veneer lumber, which is a type of engineered wood product that is commonly used for beams, headers, and joists. LVL is made of thin layers of wood veneers that are glued together under high pressure and heat. There are many benefits to this type of product (read our other blog post for more information), so you may wish to use it in your next project!

Something to consider, however, is that while LVL is stronger and more stable than regular lumber, it also has some limitations. One of them is that you should never drill holes into LVL, unless they are specifically allowed by the manufacturer’s instructions. Drilling holes into LVL can weaken the product and reduce its load-bearing capacity, which can cause sagging, cracking, or even collapse. If you need to run wires or pipes through LVL, you should consult a professional engineer or contractor to find the best solution. At the very least, head to the manufacturer’s website and read through their use guidelines.

Likewise, cutting or notching these types of products is also subject to stringent permissions. Unlike traditional timber, such as the Spruce-Pine-Fir that you can pick up at Home Depot or Lowes, LVL shouldn’t be bird-mouthed or notched without careful and deliberate consideration.  

There are a number of manufacturers of LVL in Canada and the United States. The largest and most well-known are shown below. Head to their websites to find the instructions and installation literature!

• Weyerhaeuser (https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/woodproducts/engineered-lumber)
• West Fraser (https://www.westfraser.com/products)
• Tolko Building Products (https://tolko.com/tolko-products)
• Doman Building Materials (https://domanbm.com/products)

Removing or Altering Blocking Within Load Bearing Walls

Load bearing walls are walls that support the weight of the roof, floors, or other structural elements above them. They are usually located along the perimeter of the house or at strategic points inside the house. Load bearing walls are designed to transfer the load to the foundation and should not be altered without proper planning and approval. One of the common mistakes that homeowners make when renovating their home is removing or altering the blocking within their bearing walls.

To be very clear – blocking is a piece of wood that is installed between the studs of a wall to provide lateral support and prevent twisting or buckling. They’re usually fairly small (12” to 16”) so they may not seem like a big deal. BUT! Removing blocking from load bearing walls can compromise the stability and strength of the wall and cause it to fail under stress, among other concerns. If you want to remove blocking from a load bearing wall, you should consult a professional engineer or contractor to ensure that the wall is adequately reinforced.

If you’ve ever doubted how important these little pieces of wood are, consider this – removing or altering the installed blocking from load-bearing walls can compromise the structural integrity of the wall and lead to a range of problems, including:

1. Sagging or bowing walls: Load-bearing walls without proper support can start to sag or bow over time, which can cause cracks to develop in the drywall or plaster. In extreme cases, the wall may even collapse.
2. Uneven floors: A load-bearing wall that is not properly supported can cause the floor above to become uneven or sloped, which can be both unsightly and potentially dangerous.
3. Damage to other structural elements: Removing blocking from load-bearing walls can put additional stress on other structural elements, such as beams or columns, leading to cracks, shifting, or other types of damage.
4. Code violations: Removing blocking from load-bearing walls may violate building codes and regulations, which could result in fines or other penalties.

Cutting or Notching Joists

In a topic that is somewhat related to the previous item pertaining to engineered wood products, we now discuss joists. Joists are horizontal beams that support the floor or ceiling above them. They are usually spaced evenly along the length of the house and run perpendicular to the load bearing walls. Joists are essential for distributing the load evenly and preventing sagging or bouncing.

Cutting or notching joists is a common mistake that homeowners make when renovating their home, especially when they want to install recessed lighting, ductwork, or plumbing. Cutting or notching joists can weaken them and reduce their load-bearing capacity, which can cause sagging, cracking, or even collapse. If you need to cut or notch joists, you should consult a professional engineer or contractor to ensure that the joists are properly supported and reinforced.

Ignoring the Importance of Proper Ventilation

Ignoring the importance of proper ventilation within a timber framed home can lead to a range of potential dangers and problems. Here are just some of the main risks associated with poor ventilation:

1. Moisture buildup: Without proper ventilation, moisture can become trapped within the home, leading to condensation and dampness. This can cause mold and mildew to develop, which can lead to health problems for occupants and damage to the structure of the home.
2. Structural damage: Moisture buildup within the home can also cause damage to the structural elements of the building, including the timber framing. This can lead to rot, warping, and other types of damage that can compromise the integrity of the building.
3. Increased fire risk: Poor ventilation can also increase the risk of fire within the home, as hot and humid conditions can cause materials to become more flammable. This is particularly true in areas where electrical wiring or other heat sources are present.
4. Health problems: Poor ventilation can also lead to a range of health problems for occupants of the home. This can include respiratory issues, allergies, and other types of health problems related to exposure to mold and other airborne pollutants.

Underestimating the Importance of Proper Insulation

Underestimating the importance of proper insulation in a home can lead to a range of potential risks and problems. If you live in Ontario (like we do) you’re lucky to have a building code that sets the bar fairly high when it comes to this matter. Our recommendation is to stick to the Ontario Building Code’s requirements for home insulation (outlined in SB-12), or better yet, consult the recommendations outlined by Energy Star.

Being cold in your own home is not the only issue that comes from lack of insulation or the use of improper insulation. Consider the following risks:

1. Energy loss: Insulation helps to keep the home warm in the winter and cool in the summer by preventing heat transfer between the interior and exterior of the home. Without proper insulation, the home may lose heat in the winter and gain heat in the summer, leading to higher energy bills and a less comfortable living environment.
2. Moisture problems: Inadequate insulation can also lead to moisture problems within the home. Without proper insulation, moisture can build up within the walls, ceilings, and floors, leading to mold and mildew growth and potentially causing damage to the home’s structure – such as wood rot, rust, and other types of damage.
3. Health risks: Poor insulation can also lead to health risks for the home’s occupants. This is particularly true in cases where moisture buildup has led to mold and mildew growth, which can cause respiratory problems, allergies, and other health issues.
4. Reduced home value: A home with inadequate insulation may be less attractive to potential buyers, as it may be less energy-efficient and more prone to moisture problems and other issues.
5. Reduced comfort: Beyond low temperatures during our frigid Canadian winters, poor insulation can also make the home less comfortable to live in, with uneven temperatures, drafts, and other issues affecting the indoor climate.

Not Accounting for (or Expecting) Structural Movement

Structural movement can occur in any part of a home, but there are several areas where movement is more common or more significant. Here are a few examples:

1. Foundation: The foundation of a home is subject to movement due to settling of the soil, changes in moisture levels, and other factors. This can result in cracks or shifts in the foundation, which can impact the stability of the entire structure.
2. Walls: The walls of a home can also experience movement, particularly if they are load-bearing. This can occur due to settling of the foundation or changes in temperature and humidity. Cracks or bulges in the walls can be a sign of undesirable movement and should be reviewed promptly.
3. Roof: The roof of a home can experience movement due to changes in temperature and wind loads. This can cause the roof to shift or sag, which can impact the overall stability of the structure.
4. Flooring: Flooring materials can also be subject to movement, particularly if they are installed over an uneven or poorly prepared subfloor. This can cause the flooring to buckle or warp over time.
5. Windows and doors: Changes in temperature and humidity can cause windows and doors to expand and contract, which can impact their performance and lead to gaps or leaks.

Overall, it’s important to be aware of the potential for structural movement in any part of a home and to take steps to prevent or address it as needed. So, how do you account for it? Well, in different ways. It depends on what part or area of the house is in question. Here are several examples of how to account for structural movement when building (or renovating) a house:

1. Use a flexible building material: One way to account for structural movement is to use a flexible building material, such as wood or steel framing, which can bend and flex with the natural movement of the building.
2. Allow for expansion and contraction: Building materials, such as concrete and masonry, can expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity. To account for this, expansion joints can be installed to allow for movement without causing damage to the structure.
3. Properly install and secure building materials: It’s important to ensure that all building materials are installed and secured properly to prevent shifting or movement over time. This includes properly securing the foundation, framing, and roofing materials.
4. Use appropriate fasteners: Choosing the appropriate fasteners, such as screws, bolts, and brackets, can help ensure that the building materials are properly anchored and secure.
5. Consider the site conditions: The location of the building can impact the structural movement, so it’s important to consider the site conditions, such as soil type, slope, and seismic activity, when designing and building the structure.
6. Allow for settling: All buildings will experience some settling over time, so it’s important to allow for this by providing a sufficient foundation and properly preparing the soil before construction.

Overall, accounting for structural movement is an important consideration when building a house to ensure that the structure remains stable and safe over time. It’s important to consult with a professional engineer or building inspector to ensure that the structure is designed and built to meet all necessary safety and building standards.

Using the Wrong Type of Screws or Nails

Screws and nails are two of the most common types of fasteners used in construction and woodworking projects. Each type of fastener has its own strengths and weaknesses, and choosing the right one for your project can help ensure a successful outcome.

When it comes to framing a house, both nails and screws can be used, but nails are generally the preferred option for a few reasons:

1. Cost: Nails are typically less expensive than screws, which can add up quickly when framing an entire house.
2. Speed: Nails can be driven more quickly than screws, which can help speed up the framing process.
3. Strength: When installed correctly, nails can provide adequate strength and support for framing materials, such as studs and joists.

However, screws can be used in certain situations where additional strength is needed, such as in seismic or high-wind areas. Additionally, screws can be useful for attaching items to the framing, such as cabinets or other fixtures. In a few situations, such as when using special hangers or fastening products, one product may be specified as a requirement. Pay special attention to the instructions!

Ultimately, the decision to use nails or screws for framing will depend on a range of factors, including local building codes, the specific requirements of the project, and personal preference. With that said, there are other fasteners available, and they too have their purposes. Here are some of the most common types of screws and nails and when each one should be used (without going over common framing nails):

1. Wood screws: Wood screws are designed for use in woodworking projects and come in a variety of lengths and diameters. They typically have a threaded shaft and a pointed tip and are often used to join two pieces of wood together. Wood screws can be used in a wide range of applications, from building furniture to framing a house.
2. Drywall screws: Drywall screws are designed specifically for use in drywall installation and are often used to attach drywall to wood or metal studs. They have a flat, bugle-shaped head that sits flush with the surface of the drywall and are available in a variety of lengths and gauges.
3. Deck screws: Deck screws are designed for use in outdoor applications, such as building decks or fences. They are typically made from a corrosion-resistant material, such as stainless steel, and often have a special coating to help protect against rust and weathering. Deck screws may have a square or star-shaped drive, which helps to prevent the driver from slipping during installation.
4. Roofing nails: Roofing nails are used to attach roofing materials, such as shingles or tiles, to the roof decking. They are typically made from a galvanized material to help prevent rust and corrosion and are available in a range of lengths and gauges.
5. Finish nails: Finish nails are designed for use in finishing work, such as installing trim or molding. They have a small head that can be easily concealed with wood filler or paint and are often used in areas where appearance is important.
6. Brad nails: Brad nails are similar to finish nails but are smaller in diameter and have a smaller head. They are often used in delicate woodworking projects, such as attaching trim or decorative elements.
7. Masonry nails: Masonry nails are used to attach materials to concrete or masonry surfaces. They typically have a hardened steel shaft and a blunt tip and are often used in applications such as attaching furring strips to concrete walls.

When choosing a screw or nail for your project, it is important to consider the type of material you will be fastening, the weight and load-bearing capacity required, and any environmental factors, such as moisture or temperature. Using the wrong type of fastener can lead to a weak or unstable connection, which can compromise the safety and durability of your project.

Exploring the administrative side of construction projects.

Residential Building Permits in the City of Ottawa

When we speak to homeowners, renovators, and constructors, the topic of Building Permits is frequently brought up. Despite the popularity of the issue, it’s not often that responses are identical. So rather than focusing on a technical matter for this latest blog post, let’s delve into something simple. Building Permits! If you are planning to build, renovate or add an accessory structure to your residential property in Ottawa, you may need a building permit from the City. A building permit is a document that authorizes you to start construction according to approved plans and specifications. It also ensures that your project complies with the Ontario Building Code, zoning by-laws and other applicable laws and regulations.

Why do you need a building permit?

A building permit is required for most types of residential construction projects, such as:

– New buildings or additions

– Alterations or repairs

– Demolitions or removals

– Change of use or occupancy

– Installation or modification of plumbing, heating, ventilation, air conditioning, fireplaces, wood stoves or chimneys

– Installation or alteration of electrical systems

– Installation of solar panels or wind turbines

– Construction of decks, porches, sheds, garages, carports, pools, hot tubs or fences

A building permit ensures that your project meets the minimum standards for health, safety and accessibility. It also protects you from potential liability issues and helps maintain the value and quality of your property. Obtaining a permit helps you avoid legal issues and fines that may arise from non-compliance with the Building Code or bylaws.

Consider this in a different way – getting a building permit allows you to access professional advice and inspections from qualified staff who can help you avoid costly mistakes and delays. For a rather low sum of money, you’ll get the benefit of additional oversight on your project. Lastly, if you’re planning on ever selling your property, having a record of a building permit may increase the value and marketability of your property by providing proof of compliance and quality workmanship.

How do you apply for a building permit?

You can apply for a building permit online through the LMS Customer Portal at Ottawa.ca . You will need to create a My Service Ottawa account and provide information about your project such as:

– Location and description of the property

– Owner’s name and contact information

– Contractor’s name and contact information (if applicable)

– Scope and cost of work

– Drawings and specifications (in PDF format)

– Supporting documents (such as surveys, site plans, zoning approvals etc.)

You will also need to pay the applicable fees based on the type and size of your project. The fees are calculated according to the Comprehensive Building Code Fee Schedule.

What happens after you submit your application?

After you submit your application online, it will be reviewed by City staff for completeness and compliance. Depending on the complexity of your project, you may need to obtain approvals from other departments or agencies such as:

– Planning Services (for zoning by-law amendments, minor variances etc.)

– Heritage Services (for heritage properties)

– Transportation Services (for driveway entrances)

– Public Works (for water supply and sewer connections)

– Hydro Ottawa (for electrical connections)

– Fire Services (for fire safety requirements)

You will be notified by email if your application is approved or if it requires revisions or additional information. You can track the status of your application online through the LMS Customer Portal.

How long does it take to get a building permit?

The time it takes to get a building permit depends on several factors such as:

– The type and complexity of your project

– The quality and completeness of your application

– The workload and availability of City staff

– The response time from other departments or agencies

The City aims to process most residential building permits within 10 business days. However, some projects may take longer due to their nature or scope. You can check the current processing times online through the Customer Portal.

What do you need to do after you get a building permit?

Once you receive your building permit by email, you can start construction according to the approved plans and specifications. You must display a copy of your permit on site at all times during construction.

You must also arrange for inspections by City staff at various stages of construction. Inspections ensure that your work conforms to the Ontario Building Code and other applicable laws and regulations. You can request inspections online through the LMS Customer Portal  at least 24 hours in advance.

You must notify the City when your project is completed so that a final inspection can be conducted. If everything is satisfactory, you will receive an occupancy permit which allows you to use or occupy your new space legally.

Where can you find more information?

For more information on residential building permits in Ottawa,

 – Visit ottawa.ca/buildingpermits

 – Call 3‑1‑1

 – Email [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected])

 – Visit a Client Service Centre near you

In this blog post, we will explore a few types of engineered timber, their strengths, and delve into some of the reasons why engineered wood can be better than steel or regular wood for certain applications.

Engineered timber is a term that refers to a range of wood products that are made by bonding together wood strands, veneers, fibers or particles with adhesives under high pressure and temperature. Some examples of engineered timber products are laminated veneer lumber (LVL), laminated strand lumber (LSL), oriented strand board (OSB), plywood, particleboard and medium-density fiberboard (MDF).

Engineered timber has many advantages over traditional solid wood, including some advantages over steel.  Here are some of the main benefits of engineered timber:

• Strength and stability: Engineered timber products have consistent dimensions and properties, unlike solid wood which can vary in quality, shape and size due to natural defects, moisture content and grain orientation. Engineered timber products can also be designed to have specific strength and stiffness characteristics by adjusting the orientation, thickness and arrangement of the wood layers or strands. For example, LVL and LSL are engineered to have high strength along their length, making them ideal for beams, columns and headers. OSB and plywood have high strength in both directions, making them suitable for sheathing, flooring and roofing.

• Sustainability: Engineered timber products are more environmentally friendly than solid wood because they use less raw material and produce less waste. Engineered timber products can be made from fast-growing plantation trees or from wood residues that would otherwise be discarded or burned. Engineered timber products also store carbon dioxide that was absorbed by the trees during their growth, reducing greenhouse gas emissions. Additionally, engineered timber products can be recycled or reused at the end of their service life.

• Versatility: Engineered timber products can be used for a wide range of applications in residential, commercial and industrial buildings. They can also be easily cut, drilled, nailed, screwed or glued to fit different shapes and sizes. Engineered timber products can also be combined with other materials such as metal connectors, concrete or insulation to create composite structures that enhance performance and functionality.

• Aesthetics: Engineered timber products can offer a variety of finishes and appearances that suit different tastes and styles. Some engineered timber products have natural wood grain patterns that add warmth and beauty to any space. Others have smooth surfaces that can be painted or laminated with decorative veneers or coatings. Engineered timber products can also create interesting architectural features such as exposed beams, vaulted ceilings or curved walls.

• Moisture Resistance: One of the main benefits of engineered wood is its resistance to moisture. Unlike steel, which can rust and corrode when exposed to water, engineered wood does not absorb water and will not swell, decompose or develop mold over time. This makes it ideal for humid or rainy climates, as well as for areas that are prone to flooding or water damage.

• Weight and Installation: Engineered wood is also lighter than steel, which can reduce the cost and complexity of transportation and installation. According to EDCO Products, engineered wood weighs about 150-200 lbs per 100 sq. feet, while steel weighs about 100 lbs per 100 sq. feet. This means that engineered wood requires less structural support and less labor to install than steel.

Engineered wood also has a more flexible installation process than steel. Steel requires precise measurements and alignments, as well as welding or bolting to join the pieces together. Engineered wood can be cut and nailed easily on site, with little to no caulking required . Engineered wood also allows for overlapping of siding panels, which can accommodate expansion and contraction due to temperature changes.

There are many types of engineering timber. Below is a quick summary of a few popular options. This list is not exhaustive, and does not include options such as Nail-Laminated Timber, Parallel Strand Lumber, or Mass Plywood Panels.

• LVL stands for laminated veneer lumber. It is made by bonding thin layers of wood veneers together with adhesive under heat and pressure. The grain of each layer is parallel to the length of the product. LVL is strong, stiff and stable. It can be used for beams, headers, joists and columns.

• LSL stands for laminated strand lumber. It is made by bonding strands of wood together with adhesive under heat and pressure. The strands are oriented randomly to create a homogeneous product. LSL is lighter than LVL but less stiff and strong. It can be used for studs, plates, rim boards and stair stringers.

• Glulam stands for glued laminated timber. It is made by bonding individual pieces of lumber together with adhesive under heat and pressure. The grain of each piece can be parallel or perpendicular to the length of the product. Glulam can have various shapes and sizes depending on the design requirements. Glulam is flexible, durable and aesthetically pleasing. It can be used for arches, trusses, bridges and roofs.

• Cross-laminated timber (CLT) is made by gluing together layers of kiln-dried lumber in alternating directions. CLT is a prefabricated solid wood panel that can be used for long spans in walls, floors and roofs. It has superior acoustic, fire and seismic performance compared to other materials. CLT panels can consist of three, five, seven or nine layers of dimension lumber , with thicknesses ranging from 100 to 300 mm (4 to 12 in) and widths ranging from 1.2 to 3 m (4 to 10 ft). CLT is also manufactured according to the ANSI/APA PRG 320 standard, which provides requirements for structural adhesives, appearance grades and stress grades.

• Plywood is made by gluing several layers of wood veneers at 90-degree angles to each other. Plywood is very strong and versatile and can be used for indoor and outdoor projects. It has a cross-grain design that makes it resistant to cracking and shrinking.

• Oriented strand board (OSB) is made by compressing layers of wood strands with adhesives in specific orientations. OSB is similar to particle board but has better structural properties and nail holding ability. It is typically used as roof, wall and floor sheathing, as well as for prefabricated wood I-joists and structural insulated panels. OSB panels can range from 100 to 500 mm (4 to 20 in) in thickness and from 1.2 to 3 m (4 to 10 ft) in width. OSB is manufactured according to the CSA O325 standard in Canada and the ANSI/APA PRG 320 standard in North America.

• Particle board is made by compressing sawdust, wood chips and other wood waste products with synthetic binders. Particle board is one of the cheapest engineered woods, but it is not very durable or moisture resistant. It has a chipped appearance and a smooth surface that can be easily cut and painted.

• High-density fiberboard (HDF) is made by pressing pulped wood waste, chips and other products with resins and adhesives at high temperatures. HDF is stronger than plywood and more resistant to moisture and temperature changes when treated properly. It has a smooth surface that makes it suitable for flooring applications.

• Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to HDF but less dense and more flexible. MDF is easy to work with and can be shaped into various forms. It has a smooth surface that can be painted or laminated with different finishes. MDF is often used for furniture, cabinets, doors and panels.

• Blockboard is made by gluing strips of solid wood between two layers of plywood or veneer. Blockboard has good dimensional stability and strength, but it can warp if exposed to moisture or heat. Blockboard is often used for making doors, shelves, tables and benches.

Conclusion

All of this does not mean that steel is inferior or obsolete as a building material. Steel still has its own strengths such as durability and strength-to-weight ratio. The choice between engineered wood vs steel vs regular wood depends on factors such as budget, functionality, aesthetics, and personal preference.

As you can see, engineered timber has many benefits that make it a smart choice for your next project. However, before you decide to use engineered timber products for your specific needs, you should consult an expert who can advise you on the best type, grade, quality and installation method for your situation. Sinitski Structural Engineering Ltd. can do just that!

If you are interested in learning more about engineered wood vs steel siding comparison, you can visit these websites:

Sources:

What Is Engineered Wood?

https://www.constructionspecifier.com/specifiers-guide-benefits-engineered-wood/

https://www.cdmg.com/building-faqs/wood-buildings-versus-steel-buildings

https://www.reminetwork.com/articles/benefits-of-engineered-wood/

What is the OBC? Why is it changing? How is it changing?

Ontario’s Building Code is a regulation that sets out minimum standards for new construction, renovation and change of use of buildings. It is based on the National Construction Codes, which are updated every five years by the National Research Council of Canada. The latest edition of the National Construction Codes was released in 2020 and contains several changes that may affect building design and construction in Ontario.

The OBC is updated periodically to reflect advances in technology, best practices and harmonization with national codes. The last major update was in 2012. Since then, several amendments have been made to address specific issues such as energy efficiency, accessibility and fire safety.

The Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing is currently developing the next edition of Ontario’s Building Code, which is expected to be released in 2023. The ministry has been consulting with stakeholders and the public on proposed changes to Ontario’s Building Code that would align with the 2020 National Construction Codes as well as address some issues that are unique to Ontario.

If you are a builder, developer, architect, engineer or homeowner in Ontario, you need to be aware of the upcoming changes to the Ontario Building Code (OBC). The OBC sets out minimum standards for new construction, renovation and change of use of buildings in the province. It also regulates building permits, inspections and enforcement.

The next edition of the OBC is expected to be released in 2023. It will incorporate changes that have been proposed through two phases of consultation by the Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing (MMAH). The first phase took place in fall 2021 and focused on reducing existing variations from the 2015 National Construction Codes (NCC). The second phase took place in winter 2022 and focused on aligning with the new 2020 NCC.

In this blog post, I will highlight some of the key changes that are being considered for inclusion in the next edition of Ontario’s Building Code. These changes are based on the ministry’s consultation documents and are subject to change pending further feedback and analysis.

Farm Buildings

One of the proposed changes is to introduce a new classification for farm buildings that would recognize their low occupancy and low fire risk. Farm buildings are currently classified as Group F (industrial) occupancies, which may impose unnecessary or impractical requirements for fire protection, structural design, accessibility and energy efficiency.

The new classification would apply to buildings used for agricultural purposes such as crop storage, livestock housing, machinery storage and greenhouses. It would not apply to buildings used for processing, retailing or residential purposes. The new classification would have reduced requirements for fire safety measures such as sprinklers, fire alarms and fire separations. It would also have simplified requirements for structural design based on wind and snow loads. Accessibility and energy efficiency requirements would be exempted for farm buildings.

The proposed change would align Ontario’s Building Code with the 2020 National Farm Building Code, which is a model code developed by the National Research Council of Canada to provide guidance for farm building construction across Canada.

Encapsulated Mass Timber Construction

Another proposed change is to allow encapsulated mass timber construction (EMTC) for buildings up to 12 storeys high. EMTC is a type of construction that uses large solid wood panels or beams that are covered with non-combustible materials such as gypsum board or concrete. EMTC provides several benefits such as reduced greenhouse gas emissions, faster construction time, lower cost and improved aesthetics.

Currently, Ontario’s Building Code limits wood construction to six storeys for residential buildings and four storeys for other occupancies. The proposed change would expand the use of wood construction by adopting the provisions from Division B Part 9.37 of the 2020 National Building Code, which sets out specific requirements for EMTC such as fire resistance ratings, structural design criteria, acoustic performance standards and sprinkler protection. The proposed change would also require additional measures to ensure fire safety during construction such as site security fencing, fire watch personnel and temporary water supply systems.

Earthquake and Structural Design

A third proposed change is to update the earthquake and structural design requirements based on the latest seismic hazard maps from Natural Resources Canada. The maps show that some areas in Ontario have higher seismic risk than previously assumed, especially along the Ottawa River Valley and near Lake Erie.

The proposed change would adopt Division B Part 4 (Structural Design) of the 2020 National Building Code, which incorporates updated seismic hazard values and revised load combinations for different types of structures. The proposed change would also adopt Division B Part 8 (Earthquake Loads And Effects) of the 2020 National Building Code, which provides more detailed guidance on how to calculate earthquake loads and effects on buildings. The proposed change would affect mainly high-rise buildings (more than four storeys) and critical facilities (such as hospitals, schools and emergency services) located in seismic zones with moderate or high seismic hazard levels.

Some of the other proposed changes for the next edition of the OBC include:

• Allowing for early and partial occupancy for super tall buildings (over 36 storeys).
• Removing barriers to multi-unit modular housing construction projects.
• Updating requirements for farm buildings to reflect modern agricultural practices.
• Introducing provisions for encapsulated mass timber construction up to 12 storeys.
• Enhancing earthquake and structural design requirements based on updated seismic hazard maps.
• Improving accessibility features for persons with disabilities such as wider doors, lower thresholds and power door operators.
• Increasing energy efficiency standards for buildings to support climate change mitigation goals.
• Revising fire safety and fire protection systems requirements to address emerging risks such as combustible cladding and balconies.
• Expanding the use of safety glazing to prevent injuries from glass breakage.
• Harmonizing plumbing requirements with national standards for water efficiency and backflow prevention.
• Establishing new occupancy classifications for home-type care facilities that provide residential care services.

These changes are intended to improve public health and safety, support innovation and competitiveness, reduce red tape and regulatory burden, and promote interprovincial trade.

However, these changes may also have significant implications for building design, construction costs, project timelines and compliance processes. Therefore, it is important for stakeholders to familiarize themselves with the proposed changes and provide feedback to MMAH before they are finalized.

To learn more about the proposed changes for the next edition of the OBC , you can visit:

https://www.ontario.ca/page/building-code-updates

https://ero.ontario.ca/notice/019-4974

If you are interested in our services or have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us. You can reach us by phone at (416) 277-5099, by email at [email protected], or by filling out the form on our website. We will be happy to provide you with more information and a free quote. Sinitski Structural Engineering Ltd is your trusted partner for all your structural engineering needs.